Chiang Mai: Where to Eat the Best Street Food
A food paradise
Hola and welcome to Where on Planet Earth! In case you got here by accident and are not yet a subscriber, here you go:
The smell of roasting chicken hanging in a clay oven hits us even before stepping out of the songthaew, the local transportation vehicles. Fat dripping into the sides of the oven, my mouth waters in anticipation. Once I bite in – WOW – what an explosion of flavor, like most of everything you will eat in this street food mecca.
Thai culture is a culture of food. Food is integral to Thai life, and most of everything happens while eating. “There is a common saying”, our street food tour guide, Moui, tells us, “when we see each other we say: ‘hello, how are you? have you eaten yet?’”. This perfectly encapsulates how important food is to Thai culture. Street food is affordable and convenient so most people don’t cook at home. The options are endless, and they are good and diverse. Besides, kitchens are generally very small, so why bother?
Northern Thai cuisine is unique and differs significantly from Thai food in other regions of the country. Northern Thailand has always been a melting pot of cultures and its food reflects that, being deeply influenced by Myanmar, Chinese, and local ethnic cuisines. The most common Thai food outside of the country – what you are likely eating in your local Thai food joint – is food from the South.
The north of Thailand was its own kingdom for hundreds of years before joining Siam (Thailand) officially, so it developed its own cuisine independently. The region’s weather, cooler than the rest of the country, lends itself to agriculture so there has always been plenty of raw materials to cook with. Northern Thai cuisine is veggie heavy, and in fact the most popular protein now, pork, was not part of the diet until recent history. Chiang Mai is far from the ocean so seafood and coconut are not common in the cuisine (note Khao Soi is a big exception here, which uses coconut milk). Shrimp paste gets replaced with fermented bean paste, and in stark contrast to the most common Thai dishes, sugar is rarely use in Northern cuisine but herbs and flowers are heavily used.
While in Chiang Mai it’s imperative to go on a food tour. There are so many food options in the city that it will take you years to try all of them, and most will be average. If you want to maximize your time and make sure you try some of the best, then go with a local. You will also learn a lot – about the culture, the history, and the local ingredients. We did this Airbnb Experience and highly recommend it, but there is plenty to choose from.
Google Map
During our 10+ days in Chiang Mai we also ate in plenty of other places beyond the tour. My parents have lived in Chiang Mai for 5 years, so they know what’s up. You can find all our recommendations in this google map, and below are some more details!
Street Food
I am defining this as either a street cart or a small local spot.
Chang Phueak Pork Leg Rice
Served by the “cowboy lady” (or one of her sisters) this tender pork leg over rice is mouth watering. The owner is originally from Burma and have been serving this dish for over many years. Deemed the “cowboy” lady because she used to wear a cowboy hat when serving the dish.
Neng Earthen Jar Roast Pork
This was one of my favorite places! this low key eatery (closes early) serves roasted chicken as well as crispy pork sided with basil and two fabulous dipping sides.
Khao Soi Islam Noodles
Excellent spot, but not for their Khao Soi (you can find better, see below). However, their satay, dumplings, curry, and oxtail soup were all very very good!
San Pa Koi Khanom Chin
Inside a market. Famous for its nam ngiao, a Northern Thai noodle soup with a tangy tomato base and cubes of congealed blood. This market also has a shop that sells pastries filled with coconut cream and they are delicious!
Mango Sticky Rice @ Warorot Market
The best mango sticky rice! It is a street cart at the market.
Bualoi Cart @ Charoen Muang Street
Didn’t know I loved this dessert until I tried it here. Little rice flour rolled into small balls, and cooked in coconut milk and sugar. It’s warm and it’s delicious!
Paa Yawd Shan food
Burmese food! Order the tea leave salad and Shan pancake (kind of like a filled pancake).
Laab Kai Mueang Pan Waen
Authentic northern Thai food in a homey setting, filled with locals. Get the larb , the pork curry, and the chicken soup!
Khao Soi Maesai
The most famous Northern Thai dish outside of Thailand, and for good reason! Khao Soi is a curry noddle soup made with coconut milk and it’s addictive. You will find it everywhere in Chiang Mai, but not all are good. This one is excellent!
Khao Soy Nimman
Another great Khao Soi! The broth here is next level!
Restaurants
A bit more upscale than the above.
Baan Landai Fine Thai Cuisine
Yummy and beautiful food in a cute spot. It’s small and it gets busy so make reservations.
B Samcook Home16
Very unique and tasty set menu.
Royal Project Kitchen
Gorgeous setting in the Royal Park and very good food. Perfect for lunch while you bike around the park.
Jia Tong Heng Restaurant One Nimman
Solid Chinese.
Kiti Panit
Set in an old grand house that is basically a museum. Well executed dishes.
Ajarn Saiyud’s Kitchen
The most beautiful food you will eat!
Markets
I love a good local market, to both eat and wander.
Mueang Mai Market
Great for fruits and vegetables.
Warorot Market
Good for food, clothes, local crafts, etc.
Siri-wattana Market (Tha-nin Market)
All kind of ready made food. Very interesting to walk around. You can find an excellent northern thai sausage here!
Wua Lai Walking Street (Saturday Market) and Tha Phae Walking Street (Sunday Market)
Both of these markets happen just once a week. Streets are closed to traffic and tons of vendors set up. There are big food areas in both, in addition to any souvenir you might desire.
Coffee Shops
I love a good espresso, and Chiang Mai has both the beans and the skill to produce one!
Akha Ama Coffee
Great little place for a good cup of coffee.
Kalm Village
This art center deserve an entire morning as it’s gorgeous. Plus it has a wonderful coffee, great spot to work from!
Thor-Phan Coffee Roaster
Solid coffee, small.
Hang & Craft
Great place to get some work done while having a good cup of coffee.
Saruda Finest Pastry
Beautiful and tasty pastries.
Caffeine Shop
This place was right by my parents apartment so it was really convenient, but also had great coffee!
Chaing Mai is truly a paradise for foodies. ENJOY!